Food for thought part seven – Brazil and Argentina

Laura attempting to fit in a fridge!


After all of the flavour and spice of Asia the food in South America so far has definitely been a little underwhelming. This, compounded by the fact that Brazil and Argentina are so much more expensive than Asia, meant that we actually cooked for ourselves a fair bit. However, here’s a taste of some of the more noteworthy dishes we experienced in these two countries:

Por quilo (Brazil)
The best way to eat out in Brazil is at one of the buffet style “per kilo” restaurants where you can pile up your plate with a variety of food and pay for what you eat by weight (of the plate not the person). An oddity that we encountered at many of these restaurants was the salad dressing, having doused your lettuce in what you believed to be balsamic vinegar it is a bit of a surprise to taste the salty essence of soy sauce. In a moment of schadenfreude we enjoyed watching other tourists make the same mistake!

Per Kilo Self Service

Feijao (Brazil)
I wasn’t a huge fan of this dish as it seemed pretty flavourless to me, nevertheless feijao, stewed black beans, seems to be a Brazilian staple.

Churrascaria (Brazil)
Churrascarias serve up a range of barbecued meats cut straight off the skewer onto your plate. Somehow we managed to pass our time in Brazil without visiting a dedicated churrascaria restaurant (possibly because of the price), but we were able to sample some at the per kilo restaurants, our first foray into the food that South America is famous for – meat.

Acai (Brazil)
A slushy frozen purple delight, perfect after a day of trekking in Brazil’s heat. Acai is a blend of ice, acai berries, and if you’re not paying attention bananas (you can usually opt out of this), best enjoyed with a sprinkling of granola.

Acai

Batida (Brazil)
We discovered these incredibly sweet cocktails being sold by a street vendor in the midst of Salvador’s chaotic carnival. Batidas consist of cachaça, your choice of tropical fruit, condensed milk and some very pink fruit syrup blended together with ice.

Cocktail anyone?

Caipirinha
Brazil’s most famous cocktail made from cachaça, lime juice (although other fruit variants can be found), sugar and ice, needs a good stir and strong alcohol tolerance. In their country of origin these cocktails are mixed with generous measures of cachaça that will definitely leave you feeling worse for wear the following day.

Steak (Argentina)
If you weren’t a fan of steak before entering the country you definitely will be by the time you leave! The thick, juicy Argentinian steaks come in a variety of cuts the best of which is bife de chorizo. Sometimes a choice of sauces are available but often the steak is served up in its own tasty juices. Sides of potatoes and vegetables are ordered separately and you definitely leave feeling that you’ve eaten enough meat for a week!

Juicy steak

Empanadas (Argentina)
Empanadas make the perfect afternoon snack when you’re waiting until the typical Argentine dinner time of 10-12 pm! These little filled pastries are probably most akin to the British Cornish pasty but come with a range of fillings the most popular of which are probably carne (minced beef, onion, pepper and sometimes a bolognese style sauce), pollo (chicken with onion, herbs and spices), and cheese and ham (a very rubbery and fairly tasteless cheese – the only kind available in Argentina with the exception of Parmesan)

Dulce de Leche (Argentina)
You can’t spend very long in Argentina without encountering dulce de leche. This sweet caramely goo is made from condensed milk and seems to be used ubiquitously in any kind of sweet or dessert. You can easily order an apple cake in the hopes of avoiding the sickly sweet emulsion, only to find a surprise layer of dulce de leche, because really what desert would be complete without it? It may seem like a delight at first but after seven weeks you’ll do almost anything to avoid it!

Laura

Mummies

20120516-220127.jpg

Looking down over Salta from a nearby hill


We spent our last couple of days in Argentina in Salta, in the far north west. It’s a town with a visibly more ethnic Bolivian population, locals with much darker skin, and much more traditional dress than we’ve seen elsewhere.

Salta was also once a distant outpost of the Inca empire, and the surrounding mountains contain many Inca relics. These include the mummified remains of child sacrifices made to appease Pachamama, in which honoured children were buried alive in full ceremonial dress at the summits of mountains, following many months of procession to and from the capital Cuzco, ‘marriages’ to children from other parts of the empire, and celebrations in the streets.

Over the past few decades, over a number of expeditions, archaeologists have excavated some of the grave sites, revealing extremely well preserved mummies, with many of the offerings and colourful dress appearing just as it was when the burial occurred 500 years ago. The freezing cold, dry conditions were perfect for preservation. Controversially, the decision was taken to remove the mummified remains from their mountaintop graves and to display them and their artefacts in a museum in Salta.

We went round the exhibition, and it was truly fascinating to see such fantastically preserved, brightly coloured textiles – and shocking to see the faces and parched skin of the sacrificed children, three of whom were recovered, aged 8 to 15.

It left me feeling deeply uncomfortable that the bodies had been removed from their place of rest; a gesture which seemed to undo the reason for their sacrifice in the first place, since they are no longer positioned to sit with the gods and watch over the valleys below. The exhibition itself attempted in part to address these concerns by pointing out that following the discovery, the unguarded grave could not be left as it would have been robbed, but it seemed to me this should have been something the archaeologists thought about before undertaking the excavation. The exhibition was very professional and the remains clearly being well maintained, but it certainly left me wondering at just what cost should we go digging up sacrificial offerings from distant cultures.

Simon

20120516-220120.jpg

The fantastic church around the corner from our hostel